Even in Paris, near the Place de la République, a Ch'ti chef from Dunkirk like Jérémy Sergeant continues to hark back to the beaches of his native region. There, marram grass – oyat – is a small plant capable of holding in place the sand of the dunes. He uses good market produce in his modern, light cooking, which smacks of sincerity. Excellent value for money at lunchtime; in the evening, the menu is subtly embellished with premium ingredients. Cosy, contemporary atmosphere.