Tokyo loves designer labels. Here on Harumi-dori you will see plenty of fashionistas, with their manicured nails, sun-bed tans and highlighted hair, taking the shops by storm. Dior is housed in an aluminium-clad building decorated with flashing fibre optics. Armani is in a building as polished as a Zen pebble. Hermès stands tall in a 15-storey building with a mosaic of windows the size of the brand's legendary scarves. Everything is chic, refined and modern, right up to the top floor, which houses a contemporary art museum.