On the slopes of a hillside descending towards the bay, the Tivoli district was populated by French chased out of Haiti at the end of the 18C; nowadays it has a laid-back small-town atmosphere. Make sure you stroll along Calle Padre Pico, one of its most unspoilt streets, which becomes a set of steps at its steepest point. At the top, the Museo de la Lucha Clandestina recalls the struggle against Batista. End the day at the Casa de las Tradiciones where you can soak up its traditional music.