An outwardly plain chapel hidden away in the forest and yet a UNESCO World Heritage Site. To see why, open the heavy wooden door and step inside: the interior is decorated with some 100 paintings, produced between the 12C and 17C. Byzantine sensitivity, visible in the Dormition of the Mother of God, for instance, vies with the pomp of the Constantinople court: the donor opted to be portrayed in ceremonial dress, sumptuous clothes and soft leather slippers.