This attractive square lined with outdoor terraces was once the centre of literary Madrid. On the southern side, the Cervecería Alemana was popular with Ernest Hemingway during his visits to the Spanish capital. The Teatro Español, with its 19C neo-Classical façade, stands on the eastern side of the square, while opposite, the ME hotel, formerly the Hotel Reina Victoria (early 20C), was once the historic meeting-place of the most famous bullfighters. Note the azulejos (tiles) in the neighbouring Villa Rosa bar.