In the afternoons, especially on Saturdays, Chelsea's main thoroughfare, King's Road, is enlivened by a varied crowd. In the evenings, the pubs, bistros and restaurants fill up making for a lively backdrop. Away from this well-trodden highway, there are peaceful side streets, crescents and squares lined with white 18C and 19C Georgian houses. Historically the exclusive preserve of artists and the epicentre of fashion, Chelsea became the "heart of swinging London" in the 1960s.