El Raval used to be the area where sailors let their hair down, and women of the night and all manner of dealers operated. An immigration magnet, hence its nickname: Barri Xino, it exuded a rough and ready ambiance that fuelled writers' imaginations. Thoroughly remodelled, it is now in the throes of gentrification. Multicultural and lively by day, as night falls the neighbourhood is invaded by young tourists, sometimes intoxicated, to the great displeasure of the artists and students living here.