In the shadow of the volcanoes, tucked away in the valleys or deep in the forests, the Ngada villages reveal all the riches of traditional Flores. In the heart of the region is Bajawa, a pleasant little moutain town with narrow streets lined by low-rise houses. It makes an excellent base camp for excursions into Ngada Regency; here's hoping its fragile beauty will withstand the onslaught of modernity and tourism.