Snuggled within the chic Thompson hotel, Bistrot Leo echoes its stylish attitude but infuses it with a decidedly French flair. Inside, the look is brasserie to a tee, starring marble-topped tables, banquettes, frosted globe sconces and checkered floors. The bar is a hot spot, but slide in to a cozy banquette to enjoy Chef Brian Loiacono’s well-executed French cooking. He is an alum of some of the best French kitchens in town, so diners can expect classic cooking that doesn’t raise eyebrows. From a cold English pea soup with crème fraîche for a bit of tang and sweet carrots Vichy with tart yogurt and rare Timut peppercorn, to spot-on salmon en papillote, these dishes aren’t edgy, but they are excellent. Save a fork to stick into the terrific banana pain perdu.
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