There are no decorative distractions at this efficient if spare sushi-ya located a few steps below street level. The simple space offers three rows of tables, unadorned white walls, a well-lit counter in the rear and is warmed-up by enthusiastic servers. Devoted customers know the draw here is not atmosphere, but the quality and excellent value omakase. Fish can be surprisingly luscious, especially the salmon, which has a remarkably clean finish and great salty note. The medium fatty tuna needs nothing more than a kiss of soy sauce. A 12-course omakase might also include giant clam, uni, sea eel, fluke, smelt roe, and for dessert, tamago. The kanto soba is excellent too, with a rich soy-bonito broth brimming with scallions, seaweed and a fish cake.
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