People are lining the sidewalks just to step inside this bare-bones spot that can feel as comfortable (read: cramped) as a rush-hour commuter train. Barely 20 people can fit inside, but the lightning-quick staff knows how to turn tables, so waits are bearable. Still, this Henan (central China) favorite leaves no one disappointed, even if they aren’t sweating with the sinus-clearing numbness of its Sichuan competitors. Big tray chicken is the signature order, and it is a hearty, filled-to-the-brim platter of bone-in meat and potatoes in ruby-red chili oil. But the real highlight is beneath all of that, in the exceptional noodles that seem to invite diners to slurp and tug their way through these dishes. Whatever you do, don't miss the spicy pork dumplings.
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