Hugo & Sons may contain every requisite detail that conjures the look of rustic Italian hospitality straight from the heart of Park Slope, thanks to exposed brick, penny-tiled floors and wood planters. Yet this is a special little family-focused place, where the skilled chef/owner, Andrea Taormina, is attentive and hands-on. The simple and uncomplicated cooking highlights the best of each ingredient. Crispy Brussels sprouts are true to their name, with loose and lightly charred outer layers, tender and moist within, finished with a zing of lemon zest, parsley, and aïoli. Heartier courses are thoroughly delicious, especially the pork braciole lined with breadcrumbs, pine nuts, raisins and hard-cooked egg, then seared and served in a chunky tomato sauce.
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