Kazuya Matsuo wants his guests to enjoy Japanese cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere. The approach is orthodox yet accented with ingenious touches: tilefish is salted and dried and the scales are scored to make it look like a pinecone before it’s grilled, while the karasumi-mochi usually prepared with dried mullet roe is substituted with marinated walleye pollack roe. Tender-simmered octopus and sea bream takikomi-gohan (seasoned mixed rice) are renowned.