Masahiro Urakawa pours his soul into his coarse-ground soba, served on a seiro rack. He sources Hitachiaki buckwheat and mixes in buckwheat he has cultivated himself. Even the black husks are milled, so the buckwheat bursts with wild flavour, but kneading it into such thin juwari soba is hard work. The name is an amalgam of his parents’ soba shop and the nickname of his mentor. A Shinto straw rope decoration from his birthplace, Ise, protects the restaurant from malevolent spirits.