Kazuhito Higuchi reveres Japanese cooking and schooled himself on traditional culinary skills to find his own approach. Decoratively arranged sashimi of horse mackerel is straw-smoked; eel is grilled in Kansai style, without steaming. The ingredients for each dish are kept to a minimum in order to accentuate their flavours. This means the menu is surprisingly extensive; wondering what to be served next accentuates the excitement. Both originality and a passion for the old days shine through.