Since its 1977 opening, Sugita has put down firm roots in Asakusa. Demonstrating skills passed on from his father, the second owner-chef uses two pots of lard at different temperatures, frying his ingredients in hot oil, then cooler oil, then hot oil again. For tonkatsu, the pork loin, fried in a thin layer of batter with the excess fat trimmed away, is the obvious choice. Watching a true craftsman, his craft honed to perfection as befits a chef of Asakusa, is an unforgettable memory.