Founded in 1907, this restaurant is run by the proprietress and her son. Though the building is new, the interior exudes the same charm diners have loved for decades, parlaying an unchanging old-school elegance to a new generation. Unagi is prepared in the old style, time-consuming in its attention to detail but well worth the wait. Side dishes such as steamed egg custard and soft-boiled soybeans help pass the time until the eel is ready.