Ponta’s taste, upheld by fourth-generation owner-chef Yoshihiko Shimada and his family, goes back generations. His famous cutlet is deep-fried in lard carefully taken from the fat of the pork he will fry. Work is done by hand, as it has been from the first generation. Fried anago (conger eel) and Japanese whiting are also popular. Pig’s-tongue stew, aged over three weeks, is even more popular and often sells out. Shimada compromises on nothing, which is why his customers keep coming back.