This former toll station on the Turnhout-Antwerp Road has morphed into an urbane restaurant. The elegant edifice drips with designer luxury and gilt details, as well as sporting an open kitchen. The chef works with high-quality produce that she enhances with Asian subtlety and Italian intensity. For example, okonomiyaki of pork belly or tagliata of beef with a refreshing sesame vinaigrette: mouth-wateringly, modern sobriety.