The large ofuro filled with ice and special drinks and the feather-light bird-shaped sculptures hanging from the ceiling are the calling cards of Walter Gola and Washington Fiuza’s design for the restaurants in this successful chain. If this is your first time at Pobre Juan, select one of its flagship dishes, such as grilled rib-eye steak, with a garnish of puréed carrots and pistachio rice; and for dessert, churros with dulce de leche Havanna.