With a name like this, there’s no ambiguity at all about what sort of experience is on offer: a parade of luxury ingredients with eye-watering prices to match. Diners are led up a marble staircase before settling into a posh, comfortable jewel box, with views aptly looking down onto passersby below. Offerings of the namesake range from a relatively attainable dollop of Pacific Sturgeon to 500-gram tins of Osetra that cost more than first-class tickets to the Caspian Sea. The menu, available as either a prix fixe or à la carte, is rife with other costly items like king crab, sea urchin and foie gras, with a style that straddles classic and contemporary, as in a chilled white asparagus velouté with a tartare of scallop, accented with almond and a touch of caviar (of course).