Talented chef Gilbert von Berg made a name for himself at Château Neercanne, but here he can really do his own thing. The hip interior of his restaurant features natural materials and exposed brick walls; there is also an open kitchen, where he showcases his vision of gastronomy. He has surrounded himself with a great team so that he can focus on his cooking. The apparent complexity of his sophisticated creations at times belies their simplicity. The intensity of the flavours is key here. His ingredient-led cuisine takes its cue from the seasons: more Asian in summer, more French in winter etc. Local produce is given pride of place, and non-native ingredients only feature if they make a valid contribution. Fermentation and zesty flavours are astutely incorporated. For instance, he elevates sea bass fried on the bone with the intense, full flavour of an anchovy and fermented asparagus sauce. Delicious! A punchy xo sauce made with Dutch shrimps accompanying a succulent skate wing has the same effect. Contrasts of a robust shellfish sauce with tandoori spices and a salsa of thyme and Angostura only deepen the nuances. A captivating culinary adventure courtesy of Gilbert von Berg.