There are Italian restaurants all over, and then there are restaurants that cook real Italian food. With a nod to the Brera district in Milan, which boasts a deep history of agriculture, art and fashion, this operation honors its namesake with an edgy space, warm décor, and cooking that's specific to the Lombardy and Veneto regions. Affable and informed servers merely add to the lure.Begin with rustic house breads accompanied by butter and anchovy or ricotta and bell peppers. Then launch into a fried donzelle with dry-cured lonzino, lardo and salame Felino; or luscious octopus with a chickpea purée and 'Nduja. Save room though for the true star of the show—a remarkably authentic risotto Milanese, presented with flair and packed full of flavor.