There are few more joyously colourful and lavishly decorated restaurants than Mourad Mazouz and Pierre Gagnaire’s 18C house of fun. The kitchen team do a superb job of executing original dishes bearing all the Gagnaire hallmarks: the main ‘plate’ comes surrounded by a number of complementary dishes and, before long, your table is covered with an assortment of vessels, with each element excelling in terms of structure, composition, elegance and, above all, flavour. Completing the experience is unfailingly attentive service and an exceptional wine list.