This is a kappo izakaya with an abiding respect for dashi. The evening starts with appetisers bursting with the umami of kombu and katsuo-bushi. Dashi is used in the soup, the chawanmushi and the ohitashi of green vegetables. In each, the aroma soothes the soul. The sashimi is popular and rich in variety, and the sight of the sliced fish atop crushed ice is entrancing. Simple fare, like steamed fish with grated turnip, or vegetables with vinegared miso, makes a fitting accompaniment to sake.