Chef Grégory Gillain and the lady of the house, Hélène Fays, have set up shop in a barn that is over 150 years old. Ardennes materials such as local stone contrast and enhance the modern decorative vibe. Chef Gillain’s personal vision and love of regional produce have reached new dimensions in this establishment. A maestro of textbook techniques, his braised sweetbread has become one of the house’s signature dishes. However, his deep-seated understanding of the ingredient can also be tasted in recipes such as roast hare that melts in the mouth. Suave, inventive side dishes jazz up the meal, adding acidic, spicy or unctuous notes, illustrated by the homemade cannelloni of celeriac, paired with gutsy smoked beef and a mayonnaise of anchovies and watercress oil that adds fresh, spicy and distinctive notes. Rather than fancy frills, you can expect a wholesome tribute to hearty produce.