Just outside the city centre you'll find this smart, understated shop conversion with seasonally changing décor and just six large tables. The cooking takes the form of a surprise menu, with a hand-drawn bookmark picturing some of the ingredients the only hint at what is to come. An interesting and individual streak runs through the cooking, with flavour combinations carefully thought through to enhance one another. The skill of the kitchen is most evident in dishes that extract wonderful flavours from seemingly basic ingredients, like kohlrabi with goat's curd.