The experience starts with the lovely 1930 façade. Inside, historic details such as period windows set the stylish scene. In his open-plan kitchen, the chef crafts fresh bistronomic fare with the odd Mediterranean tang. He might pair fresh, briny turbot with a champagne-flavoured beurre blanc liberally garnished in garden herbs. The (mainly Gallic) wine list impresses both by the range and by its affordable prices.