After more than a decade of excellence, Chef/owner Lee Wolen’s flagship shines as bright as ever. The relaxed dining room fitted with banquettes and mirrored light bulbs exudes elegance with a bit of romance and quirk. All the while, an appealing modern menu celebrates seasonal ingredients with bold preparations and exceptional clarity. To start, braised turnips sound sleepy but it’s a superb effort with coriander yogurt and puffed quinoa. Pasta is exceptional. Think ricotta ravioli with summer corn and smoked buttermilk or porcini gnudi packed with garlicky intensity. Dry-aged Rohan duck matched with roasted shallot and plum jam is a standout, but so too is the black truffle roasted chicken. The talented cocktail program is its own adventure.