Welcome to the opulent Steigenberger Hotel on the well-heeled Avenue Louise, where Kevin Lejeune and his team have set up shop in an interior of shades of black underscored by hints of gold and copper. It is clear that every detail has been puzzled and preened over at the Canne en Ville from the head-spinning wine cellar to the heavily laden cheese trolley. The chef’s creative flair and consummate talent more than live up to our expectations. His signature dish, grilled langoustine smoked in rosemary and served under a dome, is always a delight unless you would rather sample breast of pigeon cooked on the bone, gracefully underscored by blueberries and cauliflower. Lejeune introduces an unorthodox ingredient into each dish, including in the first-class vegetarian menu. A fascinating fine dining experience every time.