This market, the first permanent market in Korea, was founded in 1905 by Korean traders when the Japanese occupiers took control of the Namdaemun market. Around 2,000 people work in 5,000 shops: silk, hanbok, textiles, the products are countless and unique like these ibaji dishes, appetisers, side dishes, tteokbokki (rice cakes). What makes this market so special are its food shops, the mokjalgolmok, literally ‘restaurant aisles’, some of which have been open for three generations.