The Ilha de Marajó, poised between river and ocean, was formerly inhabited by the Marajoara civilisation, renowned for its richly decorated ceramics. On this huge island of approximately 50 000km2 in the middle of the Amazon Delta, freshwater waves lap the banks... much to the delight of surfers. Between jungle and marshland, birds, reptiles and monkeys live alongside buffalo, the most important livestock in Brazil. Go to a fazenda on horseback and see them at close quarters!