The western slope of Supramonte, south of Nuoro, has an intense beauty. A national park and the geographical heart of the island, Gennargentu is also the focus of Sardinian identity. Superb costumes, original music, refined craftsmanship, ancestral festivals: traditions may be more alive here than elsewhere. The "Roof of Sardinia", which peaks at 1 834m at Punta La Marmora, contains a microcosm of landscapes and faces that is unique in Italy.