In the 15C, 36 artisans' guilds were established in this area to the north of Hoan Kiem Lake, each guild huddled around a few streets and today forming the old commercial city of Hanoi. Temples and traditional tube houses line the narrow winding streets that bustle with activity. Hang Bac Street is worth a detour but our preference is for Ma May Street. Further north is Dong Xuan Market, the largest in Hanoi. The guilds district is undergoing a transformation as it is regenerated and is gradually being deserted by its inhabitants.