Beyond the airport, a bridge crosses the strait between Tromsøya and Kvaløya, a mountainous island that is a paradise for hikers who love taking on steep slopes. Then take Rv 862; a few kilometres after Eidkjosen, turn right and continue to Ersfjordbotn, a superb narrow fjord between two mountain ranges that slide into the sea. The place is renowned for being a good spot for observing aurora borealis and a boarding point for boat trips that take you out to sea to see whales.