Totally arid at the time of its discovery in 1756, hence its name, today it is one of the lushest islands of the archipelago, thanks to layers of guano (seabird droppings mixed with fish skeletons), a natural fertilizer which has slowly nurtured a unique ecosystem. Breathe in the intoxicating scent of Wright's gardenias, which only grow here, and stroll among flocks of seabirds, including the world's largest colony of noddies and sooty terns.