The mall itself is a little run-down, but behind the gilt door of this eatery, a cosy space awaits. The chef and owner, both from Yangzhou, champion a menu that crosses boundaries, showing Japanese, Cantonese, Zhejiang and even European influences. Standouts include smoked tilefish uroko-yaki, and deep-fried pork ribs in fermented shrimp sauce with parmesan. When it is available, order the braised hairy crab with tomato and potato.