This bustling joint in the old town specialises in shao jiao pei – the Minnan term for small plates intended to be enjoyed with alcohol. The owners, a couple, have been at the helm for 10-plus years. Their seafood-forward menu also features meat and offal dishes. The crisp but tender blanched octopus is served with a simply addictive secret dip. Pork kidney in Sichuan pepper sauce comes on a bed of sliced celtuce, presenting a contrast of textures.