Down in Wales’ far southwest corner, Wolfscastle Country Hotel may be best known as a boutique wedding venue, but it also harbours this six-table restaurant that’s worth a visit in its own right. The concise à la carte is influenced by the seasons and locality, with the kitchen team pouring obvious care and understanding into each dish. The pistachio soufflé, for example, is beautifully risen and nicely balanced by chocolate ice cream and sharp raspberry purée. Attentive service is delivered with palpable pride.