A single door, with a host to match, marks the entrance to this culinary laboratory that goes far beyond its tiny name. Dinner begins in the all-white bar for a cocktail and inventive snacks before moving to the main room with a dozen seats at a wood-topped counter built around the kitchen (there's also an intimate table for small groups).Through a series of small bites and courses, whimsy and surprise are the driving forces. From trompe l'œil cauliflower with caviar and hazelnut oil, via a trembling jamón chawanmushi with soy caramel and sea urchin, to a perfectly judged squab pigeon and the closing crowd-pleasing fried ice cream donut, there is never a dull moment. Along the edges of the room, sharply suited servers ensure a seamless, sincere experience.