Makoto Onozawa finds inventive ways to break the mould while respecting tradition. Soup dishes and sashimi uphold the basics, reassuring the diner. Broiled unagi seasoned in soy-based sweet sauce is served together with broiled unseasoned unagi for a special treat. Rolled sushi of tuna and pickled daikon radish are served in the intervals, bringing satisfaction. The meal concludes on two comfort-food notes: soba and curry. Breaking tradition, after all, is about seeing the job to completion.