Sourcing the finest ingredients is something of an obsession for Kyoto-born Kazuhiro Hamamoto. And it’s not just his nigiri, whether nodoguro or chutoro, that shows his care and craftmanship – the dishes served before it, like spiny lobster with uni, or smoked meji-makuro, prove just as memorable. There is only one sitting at lunch and dinner at the handsome, curved counter, so you’ll need patience and perseverance when trying to secure a booking.