Welcome to the evolution of fine dining, where streams of plates are passed between guests dim sum-style, and the seasonal cooking is vibrant and surprising. You may not understand all of what you ordered at first, but prices are reasonable so pile on a few extras and try everything. Highlights include pan-seared dumplings with tender guinea hen and shiitake mushrooms accompanied by a tableside pour of umami-rich broth. Heartier plates of fried black cod tail glazed in a delicious tamari-butter, followed by hot-pink rhubarb-and-passion fruit granita over an oat mousse are a fine study in wonderfully unexpected flavors and textures.Be forewarned: getting a reservation here is a challenge, so it's best to avoid nights when large parties are booked.