A lively trattoria just a stone’s throw from the Vatican, simple to the point of austerity, open continuously from midday until late in the evening and well known for its generous portions and the most unvarnished of Lazio cooking. Here the offal takes centre stage – from fried brain to trippa alla romana – alongside the classic pasta dishes of amatriciana and carbonara, served in a substantial format of a full 130 grams, saltimbocca alla romana, pollo alla cacciatora and the traditional ricotta and sour cherry tart. Directly opposite, the offering multiplies with Armare, an almost twin trattoria presenting the same menu enriched by seafood dishes, and with Arbanco, a neighbourhood rosticceria. Taken together, a true landmark of the Trionfale quarter, frequented by local residents and passing visitors alike in search of authentic flavours.