In the centre of Privas, on a square adorned with a fountain, this restaurant with tables laid out on a terrace in summer has two small dining areas that exude traditional charm (hardwood floors, exposed stone walls, beamed ceiling). The chef brings a touch of indulgence and a dash of panache to French classics. The basis of each dish is consistently clear and identifiable – think glazed calf sweetbreads with a fragrant jus, al dente vegetables and lemon zest. For dessert: a harmonious pairing of candied apricot, freshly made ice cream with Ardèche olive oil and pecan granola.