Time seems to stand still at Maaemo, where a dramatic, high-ceilinged dining room comes with a theatrically lit open kitchen and a wool-draped wall made of offcuts from national folk costumes. The surprise tasting menu comprises a succession of expertly crafted, consistently memorable dishes that deliver sublime flavours and textures in superbly conceived combinations; maybe honey-glazed langoustine – grilled over embers – with hazelnuts and roasted garlic or dry-aged reindeer with blackcurrant and verbena. To finish, coffee and jewel-like petits fours are served in the speakeasy-style lounge.