Owner-chef Yoshiaki Fujimoto expresses the passing seasons using only ingredients from Japan. Selecting ingredients such as edible wild plants and shirako, and preparing his dashi with kombu, he permeates his menu with a Japanese sensibility. Spices and vinegar are deployed to modulate the flow of flavours. Desserts fashioned from combinations of fruits and vegetables, such as pears with turnips or strawberries with fennel, are a Fujimoto innovation. He guards tradition while refining it.