Owner-chef Akihiro Yamada is third in a line of chefs that began with his grandfather – and he is now blazing new trails in Osaka cuisine with his creative approaches. To draw out the flavour of the Ma-kombu, he uses only the famous mineral water of Mino. For tsukuri, he has created an ingenious dressing of shirako and konoko (dried sea-cucumber ovaries). In fried foods, items such as croquettes testify to his expertise with Western-inspired dishes.