Combining tradition and modernity to wonderful effect, Mühltalhof is a lovely place to stay and, above all, to eat extremely good food. Ois has just five tables and a modern design dominated by chic black. Diners can watch as the 12-course set menu is prepared in the kitchen. Chef-owner Philip Rachinger pares his cooking back to the essentials, skilfully handling intense flavours. His abundant creativity is matched by a fine sense of balance and finesse. This is beautifully illustrated by a succulent pike-perch fillet grilled over binchotan for intense roasted notes, and served with lightly dried tomato, artichoke in various textures and fermented plum in a foamed broth. Service is excellent, not least thanks to the outstanding sommelier, whose charming, relaxed yet professional approach extends to recommending some very interesting wine pairings. The wine selection is first-rate. Alternatively, the second restaurant serves a four-course Carte Blanche menu.