With only about 20 spots, this bistro installed in Little Italy is nothing if not convivial. Its atypical and somewhat surreal name—meaning "air-conditioned room"—is a nod to French signage and a reflection of its distinctive character. Brendan, the charming owner, creates a happy and laid-back atmosphere. The menu, presented on a slate board, changes with the seasons. It generally comprises a choice of seven mains and two desserts, all of them delicious (consider the chicken with clams and beans, or cabbage with browned butter and goat's cheese). From the seats at the bar, facing the kitchen, you get a prime view of these rustic and indulgent dishes being prepared.